Have you SEEN the Pyramids?!?
That was my response to my then husband’s incredulous questioning when I offered Egypt as our next vacation. He was relentless: have you read our friends’ Facebook posts? aren’t you following the news? there’s a revolution going on over there.
The adventurer in me felt he was overreacting. Eventually I caved. And so it was that in February 2011 we ended up in Cozumel, Mexico. Still the dream of seeing Egypt remained in my heart.
The Egyptian Revolution of 2011
It was this singular event that caused me to postpone my visit to the Land of Queens and Pharaohs. To understand how Egypt’s 2011 revolution started it’s crucial to look at Tunisia’s Jasmine Revolution.
On 17 December 2010, a 26 year old Tunisian fruit vendor, Tarek al-Tayeb Mohamed Bouazizi set himself on fire outside the Sidi Bouzid governor’s office. Mr. Bouazizi’s extreme actions were the catalyst for his country’s first demonstrations. The people fought against a corrupt government, poor living standards, high unemployment, police brutality, and human rights violations. After weeks of escalating violence, on 14 January 2011 the citizens’ cries were met with Tunisian President, Zine El Abidine Ben Ali fleeing with his family to Saudi Arabia. Click here for detailed timeline.
Inspired by Tunisia’s successful uprising, on 25 Jan 2011 Egyptian citizens took to Cairo’s Tahrir Square with their own anti-government protests demanding security, safety, religious freedom, human rights, and social justice. They clamored for President Hosni Mubarak’s departure. As protesters clashed with security forces, many hundreds lost their lives and several thousands were injured. After 18 days of civil unrest and almost 30 years under his brutal regime, on 11 February 2011, Mubarak stepped down, leaving the country under the control of the Supreme Council of the Armed Forces. Click here to visit a timeline of events.
Fast Forward 7 Years
Thanks in large part to a deeply discounted flight offer on secretflying.com, I snagged a $599 deal from New York City to Cairo. And while I was thrilled about this upcoming trip, I must admit to being a pinch nervous when folks asked you’re going to Egypt alone? is it safe over there? why the Middle East? Telling myself that they were simply projecting their fears, I remembered my neighbor’s words. The day before my departure he shared that he’d visited Egypt 15 years prior and had the most memorable time.
And so it was that in March 2018, under very different circumstances, my feet found themselves on Egyptian soil.
Kissing a Camel in Giza
A tango buddy of mine recommended Loai Rami’s Insight Tours (click here for contact) and it was with them (my guide, Kelly and our private driver, Rami’s uncle Halim) that my Egyptian adventure began. Before heading to the Pyramids we stopped at a local cafe to cool off from the scorching sun with a refreshing mint lemonade.
While sitting in the shade, sipping our tasty beverages my tour guide, Kelly and I chatted about how she ended up in Egypt. She’d visited over a decade prior and remembered telling herself she’d come live here one day. Years later, the opportunity presented itself, Kelly left her home in Caldas da Rainha, Portugal and moved to Egypt, settling first in Cairo then in Dahab.
As we sat there talking, a man atop a camel passed in front of us and that was an opening for me to share with Kelly my conflicted feelings on this issue. Prior to arriving in Egypt I’d read more than one disheartening account of the camels’ mistreatment. Kelly assured me that their tour company only partnered with reputable camel runners. Relieved to hear this we finished our drinks, Kelly put out her cigarette and we left the shop walking towards the entrance to the pyramids.
Approaching the area where I caught that first glimpse of the Great Sphinx is such a vivid memory; I was in complete awe. Maybe it’s a common reaction. I also remember that there was construction around the grounds and when we got up closer I wondered how impossible it would be to snap a picture free from any machinery, tools, or fencing. Alas, I reminded myself to enjoy every millisecond of being in this beautiful country, the photo opportunities were secondary.
Making our way to the camel station, we found Loai Rami’s connection to select our beauties. Kelly’s was named Homie Boy and mine, Moses. Smiling at Moses, albeit from a short distance as I was afraid to get too close, I just kept looking at him with admiration. Slowly I noticed that as I continued to gaze at him, Moses’s seeming curiosity fixated on me. Our energies clearly synching, and leaning in towards him I puckered my lips making that kissing sound. Moses brought his snout ever so near to my face until……we kissed. The most tender moment of my time in Cairo, I sometimes replay the “live” functionality on my cell phone to relive the laughter, the sweetness of that experience.
Shortly after we headed towards the pyramids, and this being my first time on a camel, I paid close attention to the camel runner’s instructions on how to mount Moses. Holding tightly to the front “horn” (that slightly curved part at the top where you grip your hand as you ride), I was helped onto the saddle. Leaning back as Moses got up on his hind legs then shifting my weight forward as he stood up on his front legs, I felt apprehensive. Thinking that if Moses sensed my fear he might feel agitated and react accordingly. So instead I took deep breaths, telling Moses how beautiful he is, thanking him for having me.
Meditating Under the Queen’s Guidance
Taking our route around the perimeter of Giza I could see the pyramids in the distance. Rocking back and forth to the tune of Moses’s dance, we approached the three larger pyramids. Hoping to avoid the crowds of tourists, I mentioned to Kelly that I preferred not to enter the larger tombs. She agreed, so we eventually dismounted our camels and I was able to soak in the sacred surroundings, thanking both Egypt’s ancestors as well as my own for allowing me to live these moments.
Coming upon the three smaller pyramids, it was here that I was gifted with a most unexpected surprise – the guard allowed me to enter the Queen’s Tomb
A L O N E
Nodding, he motioned for me to approach while instructing that I enter the tomb walking backwards and slowly, ensuring to hold the railing on either side. Initially I was a bit hesitant then reminded myself how blessed I was to have this remarkable opportunity. Reaching the bottom of the chamber a multitude of emotions washed over me: gratitude, release, acceptance, and still some slight fear (thinking what happens if somehow I become locked in). Sitting silently for a few moments, legs crossed, I began to meditate, thanking Her divine feminine energy for gracing me with Her presence. Several minutes later the guard appeared, asking if I was ok (shaking my head yes: I was more than “ok”). He gave me a few more minutes, then it was time to ascend to the real world.
I left the Queen’s Tomb but She remained with me during my entire time in Egypt and I know that She watches over me every moment since.
Feasting with Family
Our next stop was lunch with Loai Rami’s family, a delicious meal lovingly prepared by his sister, Rania and their mother. As we sat around the table sharing laughter, listening to music, I played with Loai Rami’s precious niece, Gamela. Sitting on the floor (which by the way I absolutely love to do) we enjoyed the savory meal: rice, baked chicken and potatoes, white rice, salad, molokhia soup made with jute leaves (tasted to me a bit like chimichurri). I remember in particular a vivid exchange between me and Uncle Halim. He was explaining to me how to drink the molokhia: bring the bowl up to your mouth and sip it. My Puerto Rican upbringing immediately kicked in as I opted instead to pour it over the white rice, giving it a different flavor. He smiled at me, again showing me how to do it. Finally we both laughed as I eventually began to drink it the way he suggested. Then after more laughs and conversation it was time to say our goodbyes with many hugs and kisses.
This was such an intimate and very special highlight of my trip.
We spent the rest of the day visiting a local textile shop with some of the best quality pima cotton, stopping by a cafe for beverages and people watching before taking a felucca (wooden boat) on our private cruise along the Nile River. Kelly and I got super silly as we danced to Egyptian pop tunes while Uncle Halim just laughed. We waved at passengers on vessels making their way in the opposite direction along the river, though they mostly ignored us.
My evening ended with more hugs and kisses as Uncle Halim and Kelly dropped me off at the hostel where I arrived jubilantly exhausted, the biggest smile on my face.
Almost Stranded at Khan Al Khalili Bazaar
As a huge fan of outdoor markets, I knew I had to experience Cairo’s famed souq (Egyptian for “marketplace”), the Khan Al Khalili Bazaar. My hostel arranged for an Uber to pick me up, dropping me across the street from the bazaar’s entrance. I crossed the road, making my way to have my first souq experience. After checking out the stalls selling everything from textiles to handcrafted jewelry, spices to dried fruit and more, I headed in search of a colorful scarf, selecting a gorgeous blue/grey paisley floral design from Spanish speaking vendor.
With that purchase I was ready for lunch, a yummy falafel wrap from one of the many food sellers and then off to the hostel.
Here’s where it got interesting. Walking back to the main street, attempting to hail a cab, I put my hand out. A taxi pulled up, smiling, I said salam, Abdeen? The driver, shrugging his shoulders, said something in Arabic and sped off. This scene repeated itself three times. Clearly, I needed help from a local.
Recalling that I’d seen police officers near the entrance to the bazaar, I walked towards them and solicited help, telling them I was trying to get back to my hostel in Abdeen. After taking my details (name, date of birth, country of citizenship) and asking where I was visiting in Egypt, one of the officers walked me to the chaotic bustle of cars going in the opposite direction from where my Uber driver had dropped me off. He successfully stopped a taxi driver, explaining in perfect Arabic where I was going and voilà. We both smiled and I much relieved, thanked the officer, entered the cab, greeting the driver and I was off.
Ahhhh, the adventures that make travel so damn interesting.
The Charm of Sharm
Leaving Cairo for Sharm El-Sheikh, my sole expectation was to chill out by the Red Sea, sipping a cocktail in my bikini while soaking up some Egyptian sun. Afterall, I would only be staying in the gorgeous resort town for one night…. I had no idea the surprises awaiting.
Arriving in the City of Peace as Sharm is affectionately known, my first observation was the airport signage in three languages: Arabic, Russian and English. I would later learn that there was a used to be a large Belarusian/Russian community here.
Divine intervention interceded. After an almost hour’s wait, my driver didn’t show up and it was during this wait that my path crossed with that of a private driver. Carrying a sign with his client’s, Mahmoud Gad walked back and forth from the outdoor waiting area to the entrance of the arrivals terminal. Apparently his client was a no show and seeing that were on opposite ends of the same situation, Mahmoud approached me. We both smiled and I told him about my driver maybe getting lost. He laughed saying this sometimes happens in Sharm and showing me his ID badge indicated that he’s a private driver/professional tour guide (contact: happy.trips@hotmail.com). I asked if I could hire him, and after agreeing on the rate, we made our way to his vehicle, making small talk on our way to the hotel.
I remember Mahmoud’s sense of humor, so that when he dropped me off and asked if I’d be interested in seeing some of Sharm, I didn’t hesitate: sure, maybe later this evening. But right now I’m heading to the beach and with that I accepted his business card, paid the fee and grabbing my bag, walked to the reception desk.
While hanging out at the resort’s private beach I met an Italian traveller who snapped a few pictures of me in the water (above is my favorite). After a few short hours I thought I should get out of the sun and connect with Mahmoud.
Our first stop was Mahmoud’s favorite coffee shop where he enjoyed an espresso and I a latte. We talked about Egypt’s history, the economy, the country’s 2013 coup d’état. Curious about the airport signs in Russian, Mahmoud explained that there used to be a large Belarusian and Russian community in Sharm. In October 2015, after the Russian jetliner crash over the Sinai Peninsula, President Vladimir Putin banned flights to Egypt, ordering Russian nationals to return home.
Mahmoud also shared how he and his friends participated in the 2013 coup to oust then President Mohamed Morsi. This is how he described the situation:
The streets were full of people. I went to the streets [to protest] because we believed that the Muslim Brotherhood are not doing right and are using religion to get power, to rule Egypt, the are like the Nazis. [Their philosophy] is if you are not with us then you are against us. They (the Brotherhood) tried to make trouble between Christians and Muslims. They were burning a lot of churches. Mosques were also burned. But here in Egypt we do not see differences between religions. Christians and Muslims, we are not different. We are one Egypt.
He also shared how the country’s economy had suffered due to all of this, but that tourism was picking up. Inspired by his strength and his story I was reminded of how living in the U.S. I often feel like we are so isolated from issues facing the rest of world, especially those faced by Middle Eastern countries. Mahmoud was pragmatic and did not seem to have an ounce of regret nor resentment in his voice.
We left the coffee shop, making our way to the old town, stopping at shops along the sidewalks. We visited the palatial El Sabaha Mosque before heading off to the biggest surprise.
Bedouin Style Vibes – Farsha Café
In a word, this place is eclectic and super chill. Yeah I know, that’s more than one word.
Nestled on the side of a mountain overlooking the Red Sea’s Naama Bay, the lounge is like out of a fairytale. Walking downstairs leading to the cliff where the mix of Bedouin and Ottoman inspired decor welcomes guests: spacious tents, multi colored swinging lamps, vibrantly decorated pillows, warm throw blankets. Private nooks as well as communal couches allow folks to gather for drinks, shisha smoking, small appetizers.
We chose one of the communal spots overlooking the bay, ordering two Heinekens and settling on the comfy cushions. Enjoying the mix of house music and Egyptian tunes, we hung out at Farsha for a few hours snacking on nuts, quickly switching to non-alcoholic beverages, talking about our lives, families, travels, life philosophies.
Afterwards, Mahmoud dropped me off at my hotel, offering to pick up the next morning for my flight back to Cairo.
Shukran From a Former Stranger
Leaving Egypt I realized that fear should not dictate where I travel. While I certainly realize that journeying the globe as a solo woman requires me to be extra cautious, I also appreciate how empowering it is. In Cairo and Sharm El-Sheikh I met the warmest, friendliest people. They welcomed me with open arms, treating me respectfully and allowing me to experience the generous Egyptian hospitality at its best.
At no point did I feel unsafe walking the streets of Abdeen at night though if I was alone on a particular evening, I made sure to be back at my hostel before 11pm. Throughout my short five days in the country, only once did a man say something to me on the streets of Cairo. It was during the day and even then I did not at all feel his intent was menacing. Cairo is a huge metropolis and as such, I took precautions I’d take visiting any big city especially one where I am visiting for the first time where I do not speak the native language.
I arrived in Egypt as a stranger and left feeling like an old friend.
