Who hasn’t dreamed of visiting Venezia? Strolling along Piazza San Marco, visiting Gallerie della’Accademia [museum], admiring the ciy’s beautiful architecture, snapping selfies on The Rialto Bridge, riding Vaporetto #1, stopping over at Vetreria Artistica Colleoni to view the delicate Murano Glass masterpieces. Or perhaps a romantic serenade along the famed Canal Grande via gondola. All of the above, none of it or a combination thereof. I’d been to Italy my first trip to Europe over 15 years ago, though I only made it to Rome, Florence and Pisa. In the summer of 2018 my eight week trip overseas would start with Cinque Terre and Venice.
Finally being in the City of Love I’ll admit that I too wanted a few pics along the main waterway. But I also wanted to experience Venice a bit differently than the typical tourist (though I’m a traveller, not a tourist, there’s a difference, but that’s another post). I quickly needed to get lost far away from the throngs of people. Making my way over to Ponte Degli Scalzi, I soon found myself on much quieter streets. A note on the this ponte (bridge) – it interestingly translates to “Bridge of the Barefoot [monks]” named for the nearby Scalzi church. It is here that the Discalced Carmelites arrived to Venice in 1633 where the Senate allowed them to build a monastery and church, The word “discalced” coming from the Latin word calceus (plural form calcei) meaning shoe/slipper and “dis” to refer to lack of/not. Apparently, the Carmelites either did not wear shoes or word sandals.
Where the locals are
Since I didn’t have a particular destination in mind, I wandered around this “calmer” side of the city until reaching a short tunnel that provided a brief respite from the sweltering Venetian midday sun. Then I realized not only was I thirsty, I was also really hungry so set out on a mission to find an authentic local spot.
Eventually coming upon folks enjoying adult beverages beside a smaller canal and hearing their Italian voices, I figured here was where I’d search for dining options. Turns out I was in Santa Croce sestiere, a local neighborhood with a chill vibe. Walking along that same waterway, Rio de San Giacomo da l’Orio (which runs from Fondamenta Rio Marin), I found Ai Garzoti Ristorante, a cute spot perfect for pranzo (lunch). Almost everyone was speaking Italian, so I knew I landed in good hands. Asking the waiter what local dish he recommended, he narrowed down a few and I selected the tagliatelle with shrimp in pesto sauce. It was as delicious as it looks and though I can’t recall the wine he suggested, it was a fine accompaniment. Knowing that I wanted to have gelato to satisfy my sweet tooth a bit later, I skipped dessert at Ai Garzoti.
A different kind of gondola adventure
Is it really a must? Did I consider it? Absolutely, but after mentally registering a cost benefit analysis (80 euro for about 1/2 hour), I chose to forego the ride. Instead, I opted to enjoy being a spectator watching others on their gondola tours. At one point while walking along Rio de San Giacomo da l’Orio, my eyes rested on a handsome gondolier maneuvering his boat along this narrow canal. Smiling at him, I said ciao as I continued my way and he, returning my smile, whispered ciao bellisima. I wanted to melt. Ok, so maybe he didn’t whisper the words to me, but still, that brief innocent flirtatious moment was my sweet gondola experience. And it was beautiful.
Another option would the traghetto, a no-frills public boat version. It’s still a gondola ride, just less fancy and much softer on the budget (2 euro). It seems like a fun alternative and a unique way to meet locals since they’re the ones who likely use this method of transport,
And if the gondola ride is an absolute must, my vote is to go for it! Just clarify the details: are you wanting a private tour or willing to share with others? with or without music? (maybe ask him to demo his singing voice – just joking). how much extra for serenading? duration of the ride? Also remember: evening rates are higher.
Dinner and the bold waiter
One early evening I came upon a quiet restaurant away from Grand Canal’s masses. The next day I was headed to Istanbul so I looked forward to a relaxing last night in Venice. Delicious food, beautiful scenery and a glass of crisp vino bianco was what I envisioned. This spot was perfect – outdoor seating beside the water and not at all crowded.
Let’s just say, I got all of the above and a little extra something.
My friendly and very easy on the eyes waiter, Francesco engaged in brief conversation. The usual questions: how you like Venice? Where are you from? How long will you stay? He indulged me in my less than fluent Italian. Shortly afterwards, I found myself enjoying a glass of local white wine while awaiting the first course. Fast forward a bit. Francesco’s co-worker, Neil approached asking if I speak French (I do) and curious about my evening plans. We chat for a bit. Sharing that he lives nearby, adding that he and Francesco would like to invite me for drinks. I smiled, and asked will your girlfriends be there too? Of course not.
Thinking he was just flirting, I laughed it off as I finished up my meal. Before paying my tab I headed to the ladies room and when I was done, walked over to the cash register where Neil and Francesco stood, Placing a liquor filled shot glass in front of me, Neil mentioned it was un digestivo (the customary after dinner drink).. Since I already had a buzz from that earlier glass of wine, I took a small sip and setting it down I looked at Neil as he revealed his intentions. Lola, you’re an attractive woman. Francesco and I want to have a threesome. Here’s the number to the restaurant, give us a call tonight.
Later that night back at the hostel, I shared the story (via WhatsApp) with a former roommate, Aurélie, a French beauty with a down to earth vibe and great sense of humor. We had hung out a few days earlier at Ostello Tramonti in Biassa, a small town near Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. Joking about the proposition, I told Aurélie it could’ve been a four-some had she been with me in Venice.
All kidding aside though, I thought to myself what if they intended to harm me? Reality is, as a solo female traveller I recognize the importance of being extra careful, especially in situations where I’m caught off guard. Of course, it’s entirely possible that Neil and Francesco just wanted to have fun. Still, I listened to my instincts and threw out restaurant’s card.
Ahhhhh, the memories of Venezia, La Città dell’Amore.
