Lebanon protests sparked by an October 2019 tax on internet chat services like WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger caught considerable media attention. The country has suffered from years under a corrupt government’s rule, ongoing economic crisis and extreme income disparities between the rich and working classes. These all contributed to fueling the flames of an already raging fire. My first time in this part of the Middle East revealed almost none of these signs.
In July 2019 I spent one week in the capital city and other than seeing a few street peddlers, it almost gave the impression that Beirut was on its way to once again becoming the Paris of the Middle East (as it was known after World War II). Walking along the trendy Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhaël neighborhoods with their cute coffee shops, bustling bars, art galleries and restaurants offering diverse cuisines, it’s evident how the city got its nickname.
And while most may think of Beirut when they hear the word Lebanon, the first thing that comes to my mind (when I hear the country’s name) is the food. Living in my hometown of New York City, I am fortunate to have international culinary options at my fingertips – no exaggeration. So, of course I had tasted Lebanese food long before visiting that amazing place.
Dangerously Delicious Cuisine
Believe what you’ve heard: Beirut is a somewhat expensive city; however, dining doesn’t have to burn a whole in your wallet. Walking along Gemmayzeh, there are many prix-fixe lunch specials to be had and if you’re a fan of bread, you’ll get plenty of that which means you’ll find your stomach full quite quickly. For a slight splurge (though still not breaking the bank), my favorite pick is Dar El-Gemmayzeh located on Gouraud Street. Serving traditional Lebanese cuisine like tabbouleh, kafta, hummus, falafel, shanklish (blue cheese made from sheep or cow’s milk), soujouk (dried sausage, typically made from beef), the restaurant is unique in that it is located within a vintage building and has shisha (hookah) on the menu. Oh, and for oud lovers, there’s live music Thursday and Saturday nights.
Beiruti Breakfast – More than a latte
It’s already well established that the Lebanese know how to throw down in the kitchen. But what about that other important consumption item? COFFEE
Coffee culture is a thriving institution, particularly in this cosmopolitan capital where many Beirutis start their day with a caffeinated beverage of choice. From cozy cafes to sidewalk coffee shops to small espresso bars, the east side of Beirut is a coffee lover’s heaven. It was here that I met one of the city’s young entrepreneurs, Nader Hamadeh, the owner of Gemmayzeh’s Bn Coffee Bar. Being a mostly caffè latte girl, I was eager to learn more about the intracacies of the competitive coffee world.
Nader describes his business concept:
Bn Coffee Bar was established in 2018 with a mission of providing specialty coffee from all over the world to coffee
enthusiasts. The modern open architectural design and simple seating allow the customer to see how their coffee is being brewed and prepared to be served to them.
Once you enter the coffee bar you will enjoy communicating with the barista who will guide you through the full
experience of coffee from green to cup, as well as our barista advising which coffee origin and roast
level is more suitable for the preparation method.
Bn’s menu stands out from the rest with its various coffee methods available: pour over, aeropress, clever, siphon. In addition to these, Bn offers a unique variety of hot or cold coffee drinks. At Bn we make sure that every ingredient added to the drinks is natural, with zero artificial elements (no fruit flavors added). We substitute regular sugar with coconut sugar to intensify the beverage’s bitterness.
His shop on Gouraud Street is strictly an espresso establishment, offering customers an array of drink options to satisfy their caffeine crave.
Need more than coffee
If you’re like me, you’ll go for a fuller breakfast meal. Again the Mar Mikhaël and Gemmayzeh neighborhoods got you covered. One of my favorites is Urbanista, a two minute walk from Bn Coffee Bar on Gouraud Street. Spacious and welcoming, with garden seating in the back, the restaurant also has WiFi encouraging patrons to stay a while working on their laptops, checking social media via cellphone or whatever else would require an internet connection.
Urbanista’s menu offers up healthy choices with everything from pastries to pancakes, soups to salads as well as an assortment of beverages (including alcoholic ones).
This was my first time having the traditional deep dish za’atar manousheh (spicy pita bread) and labneh…it was yummy. Manousheh (from Arabic meaning to carve or sculpt) refers to the dough that is rolled out and baked to a chewy texture. Though it resembles pizza, the popular Lebanese food item is soooo much more. Za’atar is the spicy topping often made from wild thyme, coriander, sumac, and toasted sesame seeds. It can also be topped with meat; I chose the vegetarian option (simply with za’atar). Labneh is the creamy yogurt spread that makes such a tangy compliment to the spices in the za’atar.
For those in search of a vegan option, a visit to Orenda is a must. It seems as those Mar Mikhaël wanted to keep this cute little cafe a secret in its neighborhood because it can be tricky to find. If I’d not gone with a local the first time, I certainly would’ve missed it.
Tucked away in a little nook near Nahr Street, you’ll know you’re almost there once you find Spoiler Center, the automotive shop around the corner from Orenda. With ample outdoor seating and a cozier indoor space, customers are likely to find themselves drawn to the soft, inviting decor. A pink neon sign hanging above the sofa inside the cafe reads Love Made Us Do it. A framed block in the bathroom with the words Think Outside The Box (the word outside is set apart from the other text. Then there’s my favorite: an old fashioned swing hanging in front of the bar towards the back of the restaurant.
Some might agree that, in addition to vegan food and a full bar, the best part about Orenda is that it’s dog friendly.
Towering Beauties & Tasty Sweets
Having spent most of my time in the city, I wanted to consider my options to see more of Lebanon. Enter Servine, a local Armenian-Lebanese chica and fellow couchsurfer who suggested I take a day trip to Bcharre, home to the famed Cedars of God in North Governate. She referred me to a reputable private driver, Joseph (contact: +961 3 289 004) with whom I connected for this special part of my trip.
In ancient times the Lebanon Cedar thrived across Mount Lebanon, its timber having been exploited by the Babylonians, Phoenicians, and Romans. Then, during the Ottoman Empire the Egyptians used the wood for shipbuilding. While time and centuries of exploitation impacted the reduction in the number of these beautiful cedars, Mount Makmel in the Qadisha Valley is home to those surviving trees. Found at an altitude of about 2,000 meters (6,561 feet), the cedar tree is known to symbolize strength, immortality and protection. It is for these very reasons that the cedar is Lebanon’s cultural symbol as evidenced by the country’s flag.
Approaching the valley I recall two vivid thoughts: the breathtaking views and the air’s sweet smell. We arrived before 11am and fortunately, the forest was relatively quiet insofar as human foot traffic. For preservation and obvious protection of the trees, the route leading into the forest is roped off on both sides of the path. This notwithstanding, I was soon enveloped by the calming sounds of the cedars whispering in the wind, the birds singing softly as they flew high above, my footsteps on the ground beneath. With a height upwards of 30 meters (100 feet), and a trunk diameter ranging between 1.5 – 2 meters (5 – 7 feet), the trees truly are majestic. Walking among them I felt so small, both in a figurative sense and a literal one.
I could’ve stayed in that forest the entire day, basking in the warm energy, the surrounding beauty.
Before heading back to the car, we stopped at a local vendor who gave me a walnut wrapped fig. The fruit so tasty, and the vendor so sweet (he reminded me of my granddad), I gladly purchased a bag of figs. Joseph, knowing how hungry I was, reminded me not to eat too many as we were heading to a local restaurant for our late lunch. Afterwards, on our return ride to Beirut, Joseph indulged me by playing a CD of beloved Lebanese crooner, Wael Kfoury.
Arriving at my hostel, he then surprised me by gifting me the CD.
Beyond the beach, pool preferred
These days I spend less time laying on the beach and more time hiking in the mountains or parks. Still, when Servine invited me to join her and another friend for a girls only, fun in the sun date, my first thought was that we’d end up at the beach.
As it turns out, we were headed north of Beirut to Kaslik for a day at Koa Beach Resort, a popular destination for local Lebanese folks wanting to relax and enjoy some grown up time away from the kids. That’s right, we were going to the adults only pool and at first I didn’t understand why we didn’t head to the nearby beach. Servine assured me that the pool is where the party’s at and the beach isn’t that nice anyway.
I wasn’t exactly convinced about that last part, but figured I’d go with the flow since I was on holiday. We found three chaise lounges, laid our towels out, slathered on the sunscreen, and got to the girl talk: travel, the economy, history of Armenians in Lebanon and languages (between the three of us we speak seven languages).
Eventually we found ourselves at the swim up bar, adult beverages in hand, laughing and dancing in the pool.
While my time in Lebanon last summer was mostly spent in Beirut, I fully expect to return one day to experience much more of the country’s beauty, the decadent food, the warmth of the Lebanese people.
